{"id":11868,"date":"2023-09-09T19:29:19","date_gmt":"2023-09-09T19:29:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cooncampsprings.com\/?p=11868"},"modified":"2023-09-09T19:29:19","modified_gmt":"2023-09-09T19:29:19","slug":"inside-the-tranquil-oxfordshire-town-that-agatha-christie-called-home","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cooncampsprings.com\/travel\/inside-the-tranquil-oxfordshire-town-that-agatha-christie-called-home\/","title":{"rendered":"Inside the tranquil Oxfordshire town that Agatha Christie called home"},"content":{"rendered":"
Fame, as some self-pitying stars routinely complain, comes with plenty of drawbacks. The wealth, glamour and adoration tempered by the dreary pressure of relentless public interest.<\/p>\n
So it was refreshing to discover on our trip to Wallingford in Oxfordshire that when Dame Agatha Christie sought sanctuary from the attention triggered by her stellar career, the author didn\u2019t moan about her lot.<\/p>\n
Instead, in 1934 and at the height of her fame \u2014 Murder On The Orient Express had just been published \u2014 the Queen of Crime simply bought herself a bolthole in this quiet Thameside market town.<\/p>\n
It was here, happily bunkered in Winterbrook House, a five-bedroom, Grade II-listed property, close to the river, Christie lived a life of relative anonymity as she wrote more best-selling novels. In fact, she would only use her married name here \u2014 her husband was the archaeologist Max Mallowan.<\/p>\n
But as we amble around the tranquil cobbled streets and through the market square, with its 17th-century town hall and mid-19th-century Corn Exchange, we learn that Wallingford is no longer keeping its famous resident under wraps.<\/p>\n
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Gently does it: Angela Epstein visits Wallingford, the Thameside market town where Agatha Christie wrote many of her novels<\/p>\n
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Christie in her Wallingford home – Winterbrook House, a five-bedroom, Grade II-listed property. She\u00a0lived a life of relative anonymity there<\/p>\n
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A bronze, life-size statue of Christie will soon be unveiled in the town\u00a0<\/p>\n
A corner of the town\u2019s deceptively capacious museum, housed on two floors of a medieval oak-beamed building, is devoted to Christie\u2019s life. Dawdling over the glass cases, there\u2019s something poignant about reading handwritten letters in which she declares her love of pantomimes and frustration at her declining health.<\/p>\n
Christie\u2019s presence in the town is tasteful \u2014 there\u2019s nothing Graceland about the way she is celebrated. Sure, there are themed walking tours and visits to her local church and grave. And next Saturday, a bronze, life-size statue of the writer will be unveiled during a Murder Mystery Weekend.<\/p>\n
Otherwise, \u2018low key\u2019 appears to endure as Wallingford\u2019s default position. When I ask a cheery lady in one of the shops that fan around the square for directions to the museum, she wrinkles her brow and suggests I Google it. Sleuth-like \u2014 or rather Christie-like \u2014 we do as she says.<\/p>\n
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Angela ambles around the town’s tranquil cobbled streets and through the market square, with its 17th-century town hall and mid-19th-century Corn Exchange<\/p>\n
We show our ignorance when visiting the Five Little Pigs restaurant.<\/p>\n
My husband, Martin, wonders whether this is a mistake \u2014 surely it should be three little pigs? We\u2019re both a bit sheepish after discovering it has been named after the 1942 Poirot story. Mind you, Christie isn\u2019t the only hidden celebrity we encounter in Wallingford. The Springs Resort, where we are staying, is a golf and spa hotel once owned by Deep Purple frontman Ian Gillan, who installed a guitar-shaped swimming pool (since filled in). It\u2019s not very rock star these days. Our chintzy bedroom looks out over the river. Forget the scream of electric guitars \u2014 it\u2019s the honk of geese now.<\/p>\n
From the hotel, it\u2019s a 40-minute walk into town along a footpath. The Thames here is at its straightest, and there\u2019s even a little sandy beach. For those who prefer a more conservative approach to taking a dip, the town has a riverside open-air pool.<\/p>\n
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Above is The Springs Resort, a golf and spa hotel once owned by Deep Purple frontman Ian Gillan<\/p>\n
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Angela strolls alongside the Thames (above) during her time in Wallingford. ‘It\u2019s a special place to escape and reset,’ she says<\/p>\n
Wallingford began life as a Saxon fortified town, built by King Alfred in the 9th century as a defence against Viking attacks.<\/p>\n
Meanwhile, ruins of a castle built in 1067 by William the Conqueror, who crossed the Thames at Wallingford after the Battle of Hastings on his way to London to take the throne, lie across gardens and meadows near the centre of town.<\/p>\n
It\u2019s not hard to see why Christie chose to live here. Wallingford has a prevailing quiet gentleness \u2014 a panacea for the pressures of fame. And for ordinary folk like us with our ordinary issues, it\u2019s a special place to escape and reset.<\/p>\n
Doubles at The Springs Resort from \u00a3169 (darwinescapes.co.uk). For more information, visit visitwallingford.uk.<\/p>\n