{"id":12420,"date":"2023-12-03T11:11:34","date_gmt":"2023-12-03T11:11:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cooncampsprings.com\/?p=12420"},"modified":"2023-12-03T11:11:34","modified_gmt":"2023-12-03T11:11:34","slug":"the-mail-gets-exclusive-access-to-the-hollywood-sign-as-it-turns-100","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cooncampsprings.com\/travel\/the-mail-gets-exclusive-access-to-the-hollywood-sign-as-it-turns-100\/","title":{"rendered":"The Mail gets exclusive access to the Hollywood sign as it turns 100"},"content":{"rendered":"
Not many people can boast that they\u2019ve clambered over the Hollywood Sign. Off-limits to the general public, the nine white corrugated-steel letters stand a lofty 45 ft high on Mount Lee, which overlooks the city of Los Angeles.<\/p>\n
Like the Eiffel Tower in Paris, or Big Ben in London, the sign tells you where you are – except that, with American directness, it literally spells it out.<\/p>\n
This year, the landmark is celebrating its 100th birthday, which is why I have special permission to visit it. I\u2019ve already admired it from afar, reclining by the rooftop swimming pool of the swish Thompson Hollywood hotel. Now I\u2019m at the security fence above the sign, where I am admitted by the genial chairman of the Hollywood Sign Trust, Jeff Zarrinnam.<\/p>\n
Thankfully, I won\u2019t be accosted by a Los Angeles police helicopter and slapped with a fine of $10,000. Holding on to a rope for safety, we descend the steep and slippery slope until we reach the mighty H. From here, it\u2019s easy to stroll from letter to letter, admiring the sheer size and dazzling whiteness of the steel, which has recently received a birthday paint-job.<\/p>\n
\u2018Can I climb on it?\u2019 I ask. After a pause, Mr Zarrinnam agrees. As I mount the back of the second L, my head pops out and I gaze down on the LA sprawl. Los Angeles, of which Hollywood is a district, has always been the city of the new. In the early 20th century, it became home to the new medium of cinema. Bright young things have come here ever since, to try out new personas on the screen, and adopt new faces, thanks to the skill of the make-up artists and surgeons.<\/p>\n
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City of dreams: Thomas W. Hodgkinson goes on a tour of Los Angeles (pictured). He remarks that it has ‘always been the city of the new’<\/p>\n
Sometimes their dreams became nightmares. Spare a thought for the British stage actress, Peg Entwistle, who was so depressed by her failure to break into movies that, in 1932, she scaled the H of the Hollywood Sign and jumped.<\/p>\n
Walt Disney Company and Warner Bros are also marking their centenaries. Now, for the first time, LA is starting to be old. The blockbuster Barbie, starring Margot Robbie, is the most successful film in the history of Warner Bros.<\/p>\n
Yet in its time, the movie studio has given us such classics as Public Enemy, Casablanca and Dirty Harry. These are all celebrated in a special 100th birthday exhibit, as part of the public studio tour.<\/p>\n
When Casablanca was made in 1942, its leading man Humphrey Bogart lived in West Hollywood with his wife, Mayo Methot. They had a tempestuous relationship \u2014 so much so that the pair, both of whom were heavy drinkers, were known as \u2018the battling Bogarts\u2019. Dorothy Parker quipped that their neighbours were \u2018lulled to sleep by the sounds of breaking china\u2019.<\/p>\n
There\u2019s no evidence of such strife when I explore the leafy backstreets where they lived, driven by fashion designer Mia Latter in her 1980s Mercedes, along with her chihuahua, Ginger.<\/p>\n
A Brit by birth, Mia was always destined to be a Hollywood icon. Now she makes clothes for other icons, such as It girl Angelyne and rock star Troy Van Leeuwen. In our quest for old Hollywood, we are following the advice of the acclaimed film-maker Whit Stillman, who knows a thing or two about Tinseltown.<\/p>\n
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\u00a0The Hollywood sign is celebrating its 100th birthday this year<\/p>\n
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Strictly off-limits to the general public, Thomas is given special permission to climb up to the Hollywood sign, where he takes the above photo\u00a0<\/p>\n
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Here, Thomas is pictured mounting the back of ‘the second L’ in the Hollywood sign<\/p>\n
\u2018One of the good things about LA is it\u2019s so spread out,\u2019 he says. \u2018It doesn\u2019t have the same premium on land as other cities. There\u2019s land to build on, so things are left as they were. Certain neighbourhoods really are the Hollywood from the pre-war era.\u2019<\/p>\n
The Bogarts\u2019 home has been replaced by a high-rise, though. So, instead, Mia and I seek out the address on North Hayworth Avenue where the Great Gatsby author, F. Scott Fitzgerald, after years of drinking, had a heart attack in 1940.<\/p>\n
Whatever scenes it once witnessed, the soft-grey villa seems peaceful when we draw up in Mia\u2019s convertible – more West Hampstead than West Hollywood.<\/p>\n
From here, we head to the Hollywood Forever Cemetery. This turns out to be one of the world\u2019s most beautiful graveyards. Its lush lawns are dotted with tombs. Its paths are lined with swaying, giraffe-necked palms.<\/p>\n
Deep within the mausoleum at its heart, we track down the vault of Rudolph Valentino, one of the first Hollywood heartthrobs. The fresh tributes include a passionate letter in French, declaring love for the actor. \u2018Impressive pulling power from beyond the grave,\u2019 observes Mia admiringly. \u2018That\u2019s one dishy corpse.\u2019<\/p>\n
We take in the graves of Burt Reynolds and Douglas Fairbanks Sr, too. There\u2019s also a touching monument to Toto, the cairn terrier who accompanies Dorothy in The Wizard Of Oz.\u00a0<\/p>\n
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Swish: ‘It\u2019s easy to feel all at sea among the castellated mansions of Hollywood,’ says Thomas. Above, Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Thomas visits the Hollywood Forever Cemetery with fashion designer Mia Latter, pictured<\/p>\n
Such are the oases in a city that, though dedicated to beauty, is often strikingly un-beautiful. In some streets, you could be in the suburbs of Naples or Beirut.<\/p>\n
\u2018You can think it\u2019s sketchy, if you don\u2019t go to the right places,\u2019 admits Eric, my guide on a bike tour one morning. He takes me to the prettier places, like the picturesque Farmers Market (established 1934) in the La Brea district. Here I scoff a chocolate-covered honeycomb at Littlejohn\u2019s English Toffee House. Not so different from a Crunchie.<\/p>\n
A trip to the Dodgers Stadium is worthwhile, but the rules of baseball are baffling. I\u2019m surprised to see an advert promoting the pseudo-religion of Scientology. Doesn\u2019t everyone know it\u2019s for crazies?<\/p>\n
It\u2019s easy to feel all at sea among the castellated mansions of Hollywood, with their roses and razor-wire. One evening, I set out from my second LA hotel, the stylish Delphi, and escort Mia to a glamorous reception for the film-maker John Waters at the Academy Museum.<\/p>\n
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Thomas reveals that anyone can have a star on the Hollywood Hall of Fame if they’re willing to fork out $75,000. Pictured: An example of a star on the iconic walkway<\/p>\n
This is entitled Pope of Trash in tribute to Waters\u2019s penchant for making movies that have ranged from the eccentric (1988\u2019s Hairspray) to the downright disgusting, such as Pink Flamingos (1972).<\/p>\n
Mia is resplendent in a burgundy trouser suit of her own making, embroidered with a cactus-and-horseshoe motif. I am wearing dusty trainers.<\/p>\n
Among the crowd are two famous drag queens, Mia tells me, from TV. There\u2019s also a country singer named Orville Peck, his face concealed behind a fringed mask.<\/p>\n
At last, I see someone I recognise. It\u2019s the actress Jodie Foster. She looks terrific, if surprisingly small.<\/p>\n
\u2018What an amazing night!\u2019 declares Waters, 77, into the microphone. \u2018This is the victory of joyous bad taste.\u2019<\/p>\n
After a pause, he adds gleefully, \u2018And I didn\u2019t even have to die!\u2019<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
‘In the early 20th century, [LA] became home to the new medium of cinema,’ writes Thomas. Above, Universal Studios\u00a0<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Warner Bros is marking its centenary this year, reveals Thomas, who adds that Barbie is the most successful film in the studio’s history\u00a0<\/p>\n
Another highlight of my visit is the messy hotdog I grab later that night from Pink\u2019s, a fast-food joint founded in 1939.<\/p>\n
The most venerable eatery in Hollywood, though, is the plush Musso & Frank Grill, which dates back to 1919. Raymond Chandler wrote The Big Sleep in one of its red booths. At the bar, the actor Steve McQueen tried to start a fight with the writer Charles Bukowski.<\/p>\n
The proprietor, Mark Echeverria, tells me cheerfully he would never replace the fading wallpaper that lines the higher part of the walls in the older of the two dining rooms.<\/p>\n
\u2018It\u2019s got Humphrey Bogart\u2019s cigar smoke up there,\u2019 he laughs.<\/p>\n
Outside, on Hollywood Boulevard, the street is paved with stars.<\/p>\n
The Hollywood Walk of Fame, begun in 1960, now pays tribute to some 2,700 celebrities with its star-shaped plaques. I spot the 1980s star Rob Lowe beside actor John Barrymore, who was a big name in the 1920s, starring in Dr. Jekyll And Mr. Hyde.<\/p>\n
In theory, anyone can have a star, as long as you\u2019re willing to fork out $75,000.<\/p>\n
On the whole, of course, it\u2019s thought to be the job of your fans to foot the bill, rather than yours. Yet there is one man, as it happens, who is known to have bought his own star: a certain Donald Trump.<\/p>\n
Thomas flew with Norse Atlantic, which has returns to LA from \u00a3460 (flynorse.com). He stayed first at the Thompson Hollywood, which has rooms from \u00a3214. Then he moved to The Delphi, which has rooms from \u00a3139. For more information about bike tours, museums and everything else to do with LA, go to discoverlosangeles.com.<\/p>\n